5.10.2009

Basically, my wife was immature. I'd be at home in the bath and she'd come in and sink my boats.

 - Woody Allen

I knew the rain would be an issue, but didn't know the dust would be dictating my life. I'm stuck in the Nuba Mountains. The above pictures are unaltered. The first is from a rainy day. The second is this past Thursday. I was scheduled to fly out. Instead the dust kept rising as the morning went on. It was like seeing everything through orange lenses. The next days was just kind of yellow, and now we've had two more days with no visibility but the colors are more normal. Now it seems like a fog, but really it's still just dust in the air. I'm stuck here til this Thursday, a week lost because of dust. The dust is settling in our kitchen, office and tukuls (huts). Someone said it looks like their tukul hasn't been lived in for a hundred years. The dust is that thick. Below is a picture of my keyboard as I type. The Woody Allen quote is only there because I love Woody Allen, nothing to do with the dust.


In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage.

 - you know where that's from.

Abdul Azziz... The hope of the Nuba people. I've heard the word salvation used by educated people. They believe in this guy. I want to believe.

Background: Sudan fought a civil war from 1983 until 2002, north versus south. Depending on what you read, you might hear it was over religion and race. Arabs against Blacks. Muslims against Christians. The truth is never that easy. Muslims fought for both sides. So did Christians, though not always of their own free will in the north. Black Africans fought black Africans, with some groups switching sides throughout the war, often based on years of bad blood between tribes. 

The Nuba Mountains are the melting pot, blacks and arabs, muslims and Christians. The SPLA first entered the Nuba Mountains in 1989. Until 2002 the area was a war zone. The SPLA had a strong support base, in large part because government soldiers and militias initiated a scorched earth campaign against the Nuba people in the attempt to root out rebels. The rebels were led by a man named Yusef Kua. His second in command was Abdul Azziz. He took charge when Yusef Kua died during the war. 

He's a Muslim with one parent from Darfur and one from Nuba. But a good man by all accounts. He was forced out of leadership by the SPLA leaders after the war, according to the local story because they saw him as a threat to their own power. I believe that to be true. He went to the U.S. where he's been in school. Recently the SPLA asked him back, rumor being that they were pressured by the U.S. and others. He is now acting as the deputy governor, the head of the SPLA in Nuba. The people love him. They say he's honest, doesn't favor the Christians or the Muslims, and has what it takes to change Sudan. There's rumors of a presidential run, and a likely victory if there was a clean election. That's a heck of an "if".

To sum it up, he is the Nuba Mountain's George Washington. A war hero and a statesman. People have hope again because he is here. I want to believe.

The pictures are all from the parade to welcome him. He's above in the baseball cap.







5.02.2009

Fear not, daughter of Zion; behold, your king is coming, sitting on a donkey's colt!

- John 12:15

Well I can scratch riding a donkey off of my list of life goals. The Biblical references to certain animals take on new meaning when you actually live among them.


I may have mentioned this a couple years ago, but riding a donkey is not exactly a sign of authority.


People who ride donkey's in Sudan (in my experience) -

1) children

2) cripples

3) dumb*** Kawaja's (white people)


Jesus entry on a donkey is a very concrete symbol of his humility, his disregard for the trappings of success and power.


Now sheep. Jesus is the good shepherd, and we are the sheep. This does not seem like a compliment. We have two sheep on our compound. They have decided to eat everything they come across (including the new roof that was being put on our office), and generally seem to have the mental acumen of a rock. 


At least if we'd been called dogs there are some good implications. Loyal, fierce, etc... But no - we are sheep. We are hopeless without a shepherd. Incapable of providing for ourselves, defending ourselves or walking in a straight line. Complete and utter dependance on God. Whether we realize it or not. Everything comes from him.



I think our aesthetic sensibilities may have gone by the wayside.

In Paris they simply stared when I spoke to them in French. I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language.

- Mark Twain


Things I've learned about myself since returning:

I believe I've grown in patience - or at least I'm not letting the little things under my skin at this point. Maybe I'll break down and lose my patience after a few months, but I feel like I've grown in that area.


But I'm struggling to muster up the heart for the people that I would like to have. As I've been glued to my computer working on reports for most of my 3 weeks of being here, it's been far too easy to not leave the compound, not work on my Arabic and not interact with local culture.


If I'm here for a 9 to 5 job then that doesn't matter, but ideally everything would be working toward the greater purpose of showing God's love to the people of Sudan. And it's all very well to say I'm doing that through my job - and I hope true - but I think true love demands more than a detached interest in the people I am meant to help.